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 Oil burning and coolant question?
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SwiftITR
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160 posts [100%]
Des Moines Iowa
11-20-2015
  Oil burning and coolant question?« » Reply  Edit


My Integra only has 1,300 miles on the fresh C5 motor I built this summer and is not consuming any oil at all, thus far. My 2011 Civic Si on the other hand, loses a quart between each oil change. I go nearly the full 5,000 miles between changes on the K20Z3. It has 95,000 miles now. I have been using Royal Purple 5W-30 since about 35,000 miles. I am the original owner and the motor runs perfectly. No leaks, no smoke. Does this amount of oil consumption seem normal to you guys? I noticed it was already almost a quart low last night and it has only gone 3,000 miles since I last changed the oil.

My second question is about coolant. The coolant system on my Si is still factory sealed. It is recommended to replace coolant at 100K miles. So I am almost there. Since it has been super cold here in Iowa, I noticed that my heat isnt working all that well anymore. Once I get on the freeway, it gets hot. but it feels barely warm and sometimes rather cool if Im driving around town, even with the engine at operating temp. Does coolant lose its ability to efficiently transfer heat as it ages? I checked the coolant reserve tank and it is between the low and high marks. Any insight is much appreciated. Thanks in advance.



SwiftITR
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160 posts [100%]
Des Moines Iowa
11-20-2015
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My only other thought was that maybe my thermostat is stuck open or stuck partially open. Might be a good idea to replace it with a new OEM unit when I flush the coolant. I do have a block heater to install at the same time. I should have done this before it got so cold outside.

aw614
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405 posts [100%]
Lutz FL
8-18-2012
 « Re: Oil burning and coolant question? (SwiftITR)« » Reply  Edit


Your si is still able to get to operating temperature or maintain operating temps when the heat is on? I always remember reading on the honda boards that if heater isn't as effective, you should replace the thermostat. It might be stuck open

I really couldn't tell if mine wasn't effective being in Florida, even when my thermostat went bad on the various hondas/acuras, I was still warm inside. But both cases, turning on the heat with a bad thermostat, the operating temps went down to cold


SwiftITR
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160 posts [100%]
Des Moines Iowa
11-20-2015
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Nope, the temp will stay right where it always has, even with the heat cranked up. The air coming out just feels barely warm while driving in town, and its even more noticable with the heater fan on high, it just blows barely warm air. FYI, I did the little trick so that I can manually turn off the A/C when I have it on defrost or defrost/feet. The 06+ Si's always use the A/C in these modes from the factory.

Dc2-ProductionS
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265 posts [100%]
Poughkeepsie NY
4-1-2014
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Try a different oil. Royal Purple isnt a good every day, daily driver oil. It is a less viscous high rpm, high friction oil. I used to use it, and pay the premium for it too before I was educated on it. It has some additive properties to it that are meant more for race/track type conditions and driving. (Where you would change your oil after every session/track day)

Try switching to a thicker more conventional or "standard" oil and new filter. See what you get from changing before you do any major service work.

As for the coolant, I have a similar issue in my truck. When the coolant gets any little bit below the measured "level" it acts finiky and blows cold until as you said, im on the highway or at a good cruising speed. Or until I stayed on top of keeping it leveled off. Yes.... I know me losing coolant is a bigger issue, but its the quad/dirtbike/work hauler truck. And its an '02. LOL. all good.

Try diff oil Swift.


'97-0012 - CW - The Pit
'01-0590 - PY - The Queen
'01-1058 - NHBP - Sold
'13 RDX - V6, AWD, Tech Pkg. - Daily



SwiftITR
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160 posts [100%]
Des Moines Iowa
11-20-2015
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Thanks for the advice guys. I will try switching back to conventional at my next oil change and see if the oil loss changes at all. I checked again and my coolant reservoir was empty, so I refilled it and I will monitor it for a while. That seems to have fixed the heating issue for now. Thankfully as it is REALLY cold here in Iowa.

coolhandluke
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13088 posts [100%]
HI
12-12-2005
 « Re: (SwiftITR)« » Reply  Edit


Quote, originally posted by SwiftITR »
Thanks for the advice guys. I will try switching back to conventional at my next oil change and see if the oil loss changes at all. I checked again and my coolant reservoir was empty, so I refilled it and I will monitor it for a while. That seems to have fixed the heating issue for now. Thankfully as it is REALLY cold here in Iowa.

Low coolant is the first place to check with heating issues. The heater coil in most cars requires circulating coolant from the engine to get heat. A thermo issue would have prevent the engine from getting up to temperature, especially while driving on the interestate.

If you prefer synthetic, try:
https://www.amazon.com/Castrol...6RRG1


98-1040
98-0197 - Sold
01-0187 - Sold
97' #171

ITR Expo 16 Event Photo Thread


SwiftITR
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160 posts [100%]
Des Moines Iowa
11-20-2015
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I checked the coolant reservoir in my Si a few weeks ago and it was above the minimum line. Maybe I checked it when it was hot. I checked it again a couple days ago and it was empty when cold. So I filled it to the max line and that seems to have fixed the heater issue. I use Castrol GTX in my Integra, I have never used Castrol Edge. Is that just Castrol's synthetic oil? I am not by any means a die hard synthetic guy. I may just switch to GTX in the Si too.

coolhandluke
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13088 posts [100%]
HI
12-12-2005
 « Re: (SwiftITR)« » Reply  Edit


GTX is tried and true. I ran it for years in my 98. I now run the Euro spec Castrol synthetic (full synthetic) on track due to superior heat properties over non-synthetic.
98-1040
98-0197 - Sold
01-0187 - Sold
97' #171

ITR Expo 16 Event Photo Thread


SwiftITR
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160 posts [100%]
Des Moines Iowa
11-20-2015
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Where can you buy the euro spec oil? online? I would also prefer to run a synthetic on track. How is the euro spec synthetic when it comes to zinc content and friction modifiers?

LoooseIS


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520 posts [100%]
Phoenix AZ
9-11-2009
 « Re: Oil burning and coolant question? (SwiftITR)« » Reply  Edit


does your Si have the automatic climate control?

I know my 05 TL has it and even if I put the heat at 80, it doesn't always kick on, especially have being in A/C weather most of the year in AZ.

it's possible if that is the case that one or both of your blend door actuators has failed, as they won't redirect the warm air back into the cabin like they should if they have failed.


98 CW #811

coolhandluke
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13088 posts [100%]
HI
12-12-2005
 « Re: (SwiftITR)« » Reply  Edit


Quote, originally posted by SwiftITR »
Where can you buy the euro spec oil? online? I would also prefer to run a synthetic on track. How is the euro spec synthetic when it comes to zinc content and friction modifiers?

Amazon. Here is what I typically purchase:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/pr...psc=1


98-1040
98-0197 - Sold
01-0187 - Sold
97' #171

ITR Expo 16 Event Photo Thread


SwiftITR
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160 posts [100%]
Des Moines Iowa
11-20-2015
 « Re: Oil burning and coolant question? (LoooseIS)« » Reply  Edit


No, my Si does not have automatic climate control where it maintains a set temp automatically. That is good insight about the blend doors. I just fully rebuilt the Integra's heating system when I rebuilt the motor, trans, braking system, and suspension with new OEM hoses, OEM blend valve, and I even replaced the two cables that control it from inside the cabin. I know the Integra only has one blend valve, do K-series have two? In the Integra it is easy to feel the blend door movement through the manually actuated cables, but the Si is electronically controlled, so I wouldn't know just by feel that it is broken. I will inspect the blend valve and replace the thermostat when I install my block heater and flush the coolant this spring.

Modified by SwiftITR at 3:06 AM 1/5/2017

SwiftITR
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160 posts [100%]
Des Moines Iowa
11-20-2015
 « Re: (coolhandluke)« » Reply  Edit


I think I will give Castrol's synthetic a try in both the Si and the Integra. Although for the Integra I will have to go with 10W-40 due to the fact that I rebuilt my C5 with slightly looser bearing clearances for boost. I just barely get proper warm oil pressures with 10W-40. (above 12psi at idle, and more than 50psi at 3,000rpm when oil is at operating temps)
 

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